Buy a current-gen. hotend and use a y-splitter in the filament path.

Those hotends do the same but work less reliable. Getting the filament change right/reliable requires some slicer setting tuning.

UVtools allows to use PrusaSlicer for third party SLA-printer: https://github.com/sn4k3/UVtools/tree/master

I still don’t recommend SLA at home. Too much of a hassle in terms of safety.

Shaft diameter and length is also part of it.

NEMA is just a mechanical aspect and contains zero information about the performance. Equally comparing motors by torque isn’t the full picture as the inductance (and other aspects) can be different. Equally important is the stepper-driver & supply voltage.

Biggest concern for me is creep over time.

Small CNC-mill. Previous 1.85mm NEMA23 wasn’t enough.

Not bad either.

Previously I had a 1.85Nm on this axis which wasn’t enough to reliably pull 1’500 mm^2/s acceleration milling metal. All sort of issues from overheating stepper driver to it losing steps.

I see. Size doesn’t matter to you. It is all about skills.

Let’s me introduce you to the 400W NEMA24 servo.

edit: Sorry. Was only the 400W unit. Somewhere there should be a 750W speciment.

Also be careful with these motor. While a small NEMA17 found on 3D-printer has 0.5 Nm and under normal conditions will stall before serious harm happens this NEMA34 is 9Nm which is enough to break bones. Those 400W servos are equally dangerous. While only around 1Nm they have roughly 4Nm peak and keep this torque at high RPMs.

If you have to mix it use mechanical interlocking parts. Like a PLA cavity that is filled with PETG. The PLA & PETG won’t connect/bond but due to the mechanical design, it will still hold together.

Get a BambuLab P1S without AMS.

I don’t want to be bogged down with having to run proprietary slicers through Wine and things like that. I am not sure how big of an issue that is with e.g. Bambu or Creality (if at all), but I’ve seen enough rug-pulls and enshittification processes that I don’t really want to risk that.

You can use PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer, Cura or some other slicer with them. They run perfectly fine in LAN-mode removing the Bamub Lab server stuff/question from the equation.

While not every replacement parts are also made by third party companies things like nozzles, PEI-sheets or fans are available from third parties.

As future-proof as I can possibly hope for.

I would argue money in the bank account is far more future-proof than any 3D printer can be and Bambu Lab costs a fraction of what a Prusa core one costs. So when the future arrives use the saved money to buy a next-gen printer.

Locally produced (I’m EU based).

Bambu Labs are well made so not a safety hazard but I can understand this point.

The Prusa core one looks very promising but at the same time, it isn’t for everybody and the general consumer is likely better of by buying the P1S. For the price of 1 Prusa One you could buy 2 Bambu Lab P1S and 10-20kg of good PETG.

regarding Support: Difficult question. Prusa has excellent support but the last experience I had with their printers before dropping them wasn’t that great and was riddled by issues/bugs. BambuLab on the other have the it just works magic but the support needs to improve. You send them a bunch of log files as requested. They probably only look at the oldest file (that might be months old) and provide a “wrong” reply based on that as a solution without looking at the text you wrote.

or the A1 mini if 18x18x(?)cm^3 is large enough.

For the material: Go with PETG for the coasters.

Samples.

Order each color as 10-20g sample.

SELECT

'Tequila' AS Ingredient0,

'Lime Juice' AS Ingredient1,

'Cointreau' AS Ingredient2,

'Crushed Ice' AS Ingredient 3

FROM

liquor_cabinet

Air leakage isn’t an issue. Based on the enclosures I already have they do a pretty damm good job of keeping the nasty ABS fumes inside.

Just quick math but I should be able to do it. Given that a lot of enclosures can reach 40-50°C without active heating and insulation I guess 70°C passive is realistic when you do 6cm of XPS. I probably will go with an overshoot and cool down the air for the temperature control approach.

Big & bulky isn’t an issue as the stock printer is already big and bulky with lots of space for insulation (originally used for the 4 filament spools but they live in a dry box so it is free real estate): The printer already has 60mm extrusion I can fill up with so no additional bulk is added. The bottom plate will be 2cm to keep as much print volume as possible in the z-direction. Maybe I can squeeze also 5cm there with some 3D-scanning and milling pockets.

Even manufacturers of high end printers accept the they will only get ‘good enough’ and that they need to have the heater cycle on and off to keep a steady temperature.

Some heating or cooling is required to keep it stable. Don’t matter if you need heating or cooling just something for regulation.

The enclosure for the other printer is slightly more complicated as I am aiming for a 150°C chamber temperature (135°C is required) there which means stainless steel or aluminum inner lining and rockwool insulation that can’t be milled to shape like XPS.

Is it really worth it for the small gain in finished product?

Half the fun is pushing limits and seeing what works and what doesn’t.

It’s fine.

Not great but won’t cause issues. Might have a look at the configuration to check that the matching thermocouple type is selected/configured.

I don’t know why Solid Edge doesn’t get more love.

No free hobby license like Autodesk does for fusion360.

There is a free hobby version.

AFAIK at launch they didn’t and now the tutorials and people have firmly settled into Fusion360. Unless Autodesk screws up or removes the hobby license it won’t change. People are lazy and learning that fusion360 exists is so much easier.

Yeah. PP doesn’t stick at all to PEI print beds. Issue is Prusa neither sells HDPE or PP. Neither do they sell printer cable of Printing these materials (build surface).

For Polypropylene: e.g. Eryone is 26€ for 900g (should be more “length”/volume than 1kg of PLA). Fiberlogy is 50€/kg. Not that expensive without the Prusa tax.

For me it feels the polar opposite (ify ou mean with consumer space prebuild 3d-printer it would be a low):

• For the hobby price class, there are better parts than ever to choose from e.g. Orbiter v3 extruder, bacon bed leveling probe, Klipper + Mainsail, good budget linear rails, affordable high thread angle ballscrews, low-cost servos (e.g. JMC motor) and so on.
• projects like the ERCF seeing a big push in popularity
• ToolChanger is on the verge of being mainstream (slicer & firmware support is getting better) [jubilee printer, Voron mods, RatRig vcore mod, Prusa XL, …)
• significant attention to push beyond classic FDM/molten plastic

None of this will be at FormNext this year as it is a business. It isn’t an enthusiast/hobby convention like RMRRF. Maybe in three years, it could be in the first commercial consumer 1machines.

China. That’s where you can still get the Cobalt indicator and subsequently on Amazon, Aliexpress or ebay.

The upside is the fantastic color change, which is why some still prefer it and why it is probably still being made.

In Europe there is an alternative blue indicator that is cobalt-free, but it is more of a blue to brown/very dark red colour change, so not great either especially after a few drying cycles.

the granules are blue when dry and turn purple/red when they no longer absorbs humidity.

Don’t buy those. Orange gel is the “new” blue.

The reason why the blue gel was phased out decade(s) ago is the CoCl2. Along all of the hazards are H350i and H360F (cancer and reproduction [aka. your plan to have kids might not turn out that great]).

While orange gel doesn’t have as good of a color change it is significantly lower risk and shall be used.

Nice to see Piocreat improved this printer. Last year they used V-roller on a $2k+ printer.

Was very interested in it but decided against it as the price didn’t matched the hardware.