This process is called ‘bootstrapping’, and is actually quite common in software. For example, the C compiler is written in C. The first iteration of the C compiler was written by hand in assembly code with a very limitted feature set, and that compiler was then used to compile the next iteration, allowing the second version (I’m not sure it was actually the second version; there may have been a few iterations in assembly) to be written in C itself.

For Forgejo, you dont actually need Forgejo to build Forgejo; just a computer with the Go compiler and any other dependencies. Then, once you have the first version, you can publish the code you have on Forgejo. Nothing too crazy there 🙂

This also leads to ‘dogfooding’, which is a whole other term…

Since you’re a bit concerned about self hosting and collaboration, I would recommend Codeberg - they are a non-profit based in Germany with widespread support and, as far as I know, is the public Forgejo instance with the largest user base.

If you want, you can also host your own Forgejo instance and mirror your Codeberg repos to it. That way you can have two copies of your data, just in case Codeberg ever goes offline.

You could also potentially use Gitlab, but I would personally prefer something Forgejo based. Forgejo has been much more responsive/snappier in my opinion; Forgejo is primarily written in Go, while Gitlab is mostly Ruby.

https://forgejo.org/compare-to-gitea/

CI actions and actually being free software are my main notes, but there are many reasons.

A better* fork of Gitea!

IMO, the issue here is that Microsoft appears to have violated the MIT license requiring inclusion of the original author’s copyright notice. I think he has every right to be salty about that violation.

In your analogy, the sign on the furniture says:

Free, but if anyone asks, you got this furniture from <name here>.

Microsoft took the furniture from the curb, but isn’t telling people whom they got it from.

I agree in regards to your opinion that he shouldn’t be complaining about the fact that someone forked his project, that just the nature of the MIT license. However, I do think he is justified in being upset that the license was violated. Hopefully this gets remedied; it’s not hard nor expensive for Microsoft to add his name to the copyright notice in the license.

I have an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra. I hate that it’s proprietary, but in the resin printing world the only non-proprietary option is Prusa, and it was just too small and expensive to justify. My Elegoo doesnt get network connectivity (so no risk of unapproved updates), and I use prusa slicer to slice and then uvtools to convert to the “encrypted” chitubox format. Since the printer isn’t allowed to update, I’m not worried about ever being forced into using chitubox.

I don’t really care about network connectivity for it; the built in camera is useless for me. I just have a rpi zero with a webcam on it for monitoring, and I also have an IOT switch controlled by that pi via a lan-only http server with a toggle button to control its power. If I see a print is failing via the webcam, I just cut power to the whole printer to stop it remotely. This works even outside my LAN via VPN.

I do still have to start prints the old fashioned way using a usb stick. This doesn’t bug me much, since I have to go check on resin levels, make sure there’s no crap in the tank, etc before starting a print anyways. I have a short usb extender cable to avoid wearing out the usb port on the printer itself as well. I have mucked about with using the rpi as a dummy usb drive where I can just upload files to the rpi and then the printer reads off of it via the usb port, but I couldn’t get it working :/

I’m happy enough with the printer itself - it’s fast, reliable (so far) and produces some high quality prints. The price was very reasonable at the time (iirc $450 for the printer, $250 for wash and cure station), all things considered. If someone ever produced a mainboard that supported an open-source firmware for it, I would buy and install it in a heartbeat.

I’m assuming there was no ID or contact info with it, since you probably wouldn’t be asking if there was.

Hypothetically, if you were to give it to the police, how would the police know that who the rightful owner is? If I walk into a police station right now and say I lost $200, do you think they would hand over $200 to me? No, I have no way of proving thats my money, and they wouldn’t believe me for a second.

Keep it. Lord knows everyone could probably use an extra few hundred bucks these days…

It doesnt look too hard to build from source if you want to go that route… You could just make a debug apk and install it with ADB.

That’s the size I have, so thanks a ton!

Nice! Just a tip, it would be helpful to mention the size of the pegboard, such as 1" distance with 1/4" holes. There are a few different sizes of pegboard.

Oh 3d printer resin is absolutely not UV resistant - resin printers use UV light to solidify the resin at each layer, and exposing a print to too much UV light after printing can cause UV burn, similar to a thermoplastic.

Coating the print in a UV resist clear coat should prevent UV light from reaching the print itself, and preventing the burn; think of it as sunscreen for your print 😉

Oh, another thought - you could use a UV blocking clear coat such as this on your print. I still would avoid PLA though, since it might get hot in the sun. It would be important to get a complete coat with that spray, even between layer lines. You might want to think about using a clear resin if you have access to a resin printer, since it would have a much smoother finish before being coated.

Hmmm, I would usually go for ASA for anything outside, but searching around for transparent ASA comes up empty… I guess maybe transparent ASA isn’t a thing? Too bad, since you could smooth it with acetone to make it even lower opacity. You could also look at Polycarbonate and PETG, which I know can be made transparent, but those might yellow a bit after a few years.

I’m interested in other people’s thoughts. Definitely a good question!

I use the washable gluesticks for my polycarbonate prints. I just put PC prints under warm water for a few minutes and they pop right off. Gluesticks generally reduce bed adhesion though IME, so it’s a fine line to walk; I never use gluesticks with PETG for example because then the parts don’t stick to the bed enough.

Presumably via Xwayland, but I haven’t tried it.

No? last release was 1-1-2024…

I’ve had a good experience with Onboard.

Coffee stain