If Bambu were out there suing people for stuff they didn’t make, I’d be more in line with calling them thieves. But the work they have used is still freely available to anyone who wants to use it. Similar to how Sovol sells what is essentially a preassembled Voron; I’m an engineer, I wouldn’t buy one because I’d rather do it myself. But to the hundreds of thousands of people who wouldn’t want to spend a week building a printer, but love the design and concept of the Voron, they now have the option. Everyone with their Voron can continue using it, and everyone who wants to just buy one can.

I mean, look at the computer industry/ hobby. Started off with a bunch of enthusiats building crap in their garage. Computers became important, businesses started taking note, and now when the average person thinks of a home computer, they think “Dell, HP, Apple”. But all the other stuff didn’t just go away. There’s still a huge, thriving community of people who slapped their stuff together and run the jankiest, least proprietary OS possible on them. Nothing’s stopping them from doing what they want to do, but now everyone else can do it, too.

Bambu changed everything for the worst and forced everyone to lower expectations and business practices.

I’m sorry, Bambu forced people to LOWER their expectations…? What expectations are you talking about?

Bambu made everyone want a printer that prints insanely fast, with incredible quality and zero hassle. I have a friend who is the least tech savvy person I’ve ever met, he genuinely barely knows how to use a computer, but his Bambu prints circles around my heavily modified and upgraded Neptune 3.

If your “expectations” are literally just, “it’s open source and I can do whatever I want” then yeah a Bambu won’t meet those expectations. But that’s a far cry from “everyone’s” expectations, and I definitely wouldn’t say that they “forced” other businesses to follow suite.

Bambu is making printing accessible to non-enthusiasts. Their products aren’t always going to align with what old-heads are looking for, but the benefit of knowing what you’re doing is that you can decide for yourself not to go that route. Nothing on God’s green Earth can stop you from sourcing parts and building a Voron that does exactly what you want, no matter what Bambu does, but now that 3D printing is entering the mainstream, the mainstream needs a way to print, and Bambu is there to fill that gap in the market.

Post: I damaged my Prusa printer 🙁

People in this community, for some reason: Bambu bad 😠

“inventor” is definitely a job, if you’re already rich 🙁

Just because the benchy was designed to be used as a calibration tool doesn’t mean people shouldn’t be able to do whatever they want with it. If a print a benchy with The Rock’s face on it I’m not gonna go to their website and be like “omg it looks different why???” Also the model is a solid 3d model, it isn’t presliced, so the only thing a manufacturer could do to make a benchy “look better” on their printer would be to make it visibly different than the original, which… See above.

Like I get what you’re saying, standardization is important for tools like this, but if someone wants to calibrate their printer it’s not like it’s difficult to get the original benchy and run your test. If they were just removing models that are nearly identical but with small tweaks I’d be more likely to agree, but they’re removing artwork and gag models that could never be mistaken or passed off as the original.

It’d be like banning children’s toys that look like tools because someone might try to build a house with a plastic ruler.

think about whatever it was they were thinking about before someone came along and told them they had to earn a living.

This right here moved me. Not just because it’s so spot on, but because I don’t even remember what I was thinking about back then.

It looks to me like your printer is printing on slightly melted plastic. I don’t use orca or a Bambu, so I don’t know if you’re able to do this, but I would try printing that section slower, or changing the minimum layer time. It looks like that’s a small cross section so it’s probably finishing the layer and starting the next before the previous one has cooled down.

You can drop any block of g-code into your slicer, but that would require running the file to get the commands to run. In Klipper, you can just run the macro.

For example I’ve got a “enclosure heat” macro that

1. Sets bed temp to 100 and extruder to 280

2. Turns all fans to max

3. Moves my print head in front of my webcam (there is an ambient temp display on the print head)

I can do all of these manually, of course, but with a macro I can just push a button and it does all of it.

It also makes it so you don’t have to paste those entire g-code command blocks into whatever file you’re slicing, and so that you can retroactively change commands. (Instead of having the entire startup sequence at the beginning of every g-code, I have a “START_PRINT” macro at the beginning; if I change the macro, all of the files I already sliced will have the updated behavior).

I agree with most of your points, but I do wanna say that in regards to the last mark, there are reasons besides contributing to the code and building your own firmware to want to use something like Klipper. I’m not a programmer at all but the amount of customization and QOL tools I can achieve compared to what you’re able to do with Bambu’s software is insane. I can never go back to a printer without custom macros

Looks like the model is just resting on supports. Might have a roof or “support interface” (a layer between supports and model)

They’re talking about something different. They’re talking about the people they will print a single layer across their entire build plate to see if it’s level. Basically just an extreme bed level test.

There actually isn’t one. It’s about the Mario Bros Luigi.

Oh no no, my friend. If the wealthy being gunned down results in gun control, it won’t be for them. There will be some kind of exemption for private security that will be extremely expensive to get. Those wealthy enough will be able to find ways of sourcing their own if they want one. We’d be the ones without guns in that scenario.

I actually have a good amount of experience with this exact type of thing.

Fanciest, nicest, easiest, most expensive method will be to buy filament in desired colors.

Slightly cheaper option, print them all in one color (preferably white), get cans of spray paint in whatever colors you need plus a clear topcoat (I’d recommend matte or satin for game pieces), paint and top coat them

Cheapest option, get one can of white spray paint and a variety pack of cheapo craft acrylic paint (you can probably find a 10 pack for $5), base coat white, use a sponge brush with the acrylic paint (you’ll need a few layers), then finish with top coat. Most time consuming and outcome will depend on how many layers you feel like doing.

If I didn’t already have a rainbow of different filament colors for this exact scenario, I would go with the third option. You can layer them up until you’re satisfied with the quality, and white base coat is always good to have.

All very good points. I think if I want to continue entertaining this idea I need to adjust my sights to a more general number than anything exact. Another user pointed out that time spent testing vs time saved would be a pretty close cut. I might devise a test to find a general minimum, increase it by a fair margin, and call it close enough.

Time saved vs used is a pretty good argument against.

My previous printer (Anycubic Mono 6k) allowed you to change lift height and speed on the printer during a print, so I could just lower it until just above hearing the separation. My current printer (Saturn 3) doesn’t have this capability, so it would have to be multiple prints, which would take a couple hours.

What might be a better solution, is to do a similar test, again with “worst case scenario” (ie a cup with no suction cup release hole, or a very small one), increase the result by a large margin of error, and go with that until I need to replace the FEP or prints start failing.

Which one do you use? I’ve been wanting to do something like this but they all seem kinda gross and expensive, I might try getting like a single bottle or a small pack though.

No. Don’t. Don’t tell me this, don’t do it to me, I’m trying to complete Satisfactory playthrough

I see. It came out clean.

If I may make a suggestion for if you make a similar design in the future, there is a model I found for a dice tower that has a logo indented maybe 0.2mm on the front of case. You print this side face down on the plate, it prints the face with the logo cut out; swap the filament before the following layer, and it will print mostly smooth against the build plate with your contrasting color.

Of course, what you’ve done comes out with a thicker indented logo, so if that’s what you’re looking for this wouldn’t be the same look, but just wanted to throw the idea out there in case you wanted to play around with it for the future.

Well done! Big fan of the two tone finish.

Was the top piece printed as a single part with a filament swap part way through, or is it two separate pieces stuck together?