But who was phone?

Even Lord of the Rings has racist elements - JRR Tolkein said in multiple occasions that he based the dwarves on Jews

I don’t doubt this, given the era the man was born, but have you got a source? I tried digging something up, and the only things I can find are that Khuzdul is based on Hebrew, and a lot of letters during and post WWII speaking highly of Jews and poorly of Hitler and the Nazis.

I think you replied to the wrong response

the issue … isn’t just that it’s … horrifically racist and misogynistic, it’s also a terrible game

It’s funny, but it seems like I read this phrase a lot, and not just about games (book series, movies, shows, etc). I can’t think of any other good examples off the top of my head, but it seems that every time an artist takes a really cool or interesting concept and fills it with bigotry, they also fill it with poorly written mechanics, potholes, clunky dialogue…

Sure, there’s media with language that doesn’t age well, but it seems like 9/10, when something is made with blatant hate, there isn’t even an incentive to try to push past or ignore it; the content is garbage with or without the drivel. The initial concept is just good enough to get people to want to give it a shot.

Double check the settings in your printer and slicer that “screen brightness”, “screen power”, “max power” or something to that effect is set to 100%. I’ve seen some default to 70%-80%, the theoretical reason being that reducing power to the screen can lengthen its lifespan… however, afaik these claims have not been backed up by data, and the logical counterargument is that any lifespan gains will be offset by the increased length of time the screen is on. Even if you can squeeze a few extra prints out of the screen before it dies, you’re making all your prints take way longer than necessary.

For reference, this is the recommended printing settings chart provided by anycubic for their standard gray resin; the recommended exposure time for your printer at default layer height is 2.5 seconds. If you’re using 100% power, you’re more than doubling the normalexposure.

exposure, which is set at 6 seconds

Woah, don’t know if this could be causing your problem, but this seems really high. I used to used a Mono X, highest exposure time would be in the 3s range. Are you maybe printing at reduced brightness?

Your printer has the hidden ability of being able to melt plastic 😉

I’m also confused by what you’re trying to do. When you say you found “the step file for a generic filament slicer”, what is the model actually of? When you say “combine the two”, what do you mean? Are these two parts that fit together that you want to make one model, is it two separate things that you just want attached as one piece, are they two variations of the same thing that you want parts of one on the other, etc…

Couple days late, but I just remembered this post and dug it back up to make a suggestion if you (or anyone else) decide to remix it with the charging slot, to help retain the model’s excellent printability.

Cutting a squared notch will create a steep overhang that will be difficult to print. But, if you instead cut a large circular hole through the bottom center, it will create a shallow taper that will be easier to accomplish, it will also cut down on filament usage 😃

It’s a pretty wide range, I’m included at 27 and I’ve got a couple friends younger than I am who’d probably get it too.

If you posted this on Thingiverse, someone in the comments would complain about the supports being too hard to remove and the model being oriented the wrong way.

they mean that it comes already too moist from the factory?

It certainly can be. PETG LOVES water in my experience and there’s only so much that can be controlled.

On the rare occasion I have to use PETG I usually just accept that it’s gonna be poppy unless I put the spool in with my chicken tendies.

I’ve got no idea what this is supposed to say or mean 🤷🏾‍♂️

Nice! Looks good.

I would make two horizontal slots along the bottom of the tray, maybe 2-3cm wide and as long as you’re able to print on your printer (pro tip: rotate long skinny models 45° to get ~40% extra length by printing corner to corner). Or even better, if you’ve got some spare sheet metal laying around throw those in the slots.

It is, but you’re being incredibly hostile (and vaguely xenophobic) towards someone who was literally just trying to chat about an issue you were having with a product you purchased and were disappointed in.

I’m still curious as to what you determined the problem to be with your printer, but I’m assuming you never figured it out, threw it in a closet, and now bitch in 3d printing communities about how bad their hobby is.

You seem incredibly confident in your diagnosis for someone who can’t get a very common filament to work on printers that have been using it for years. Care to elaborate more than, “you’re completely wrong, except for where you’re right”? What was causing the problem?

It sounds like it may have been reaching a thermal shutoff point and killing itself. Maybe the temp you were aiming for was close to the limit, and slight variations caused it to go over and “save” itself.

The only thing that might keep a printer that prints PLA well from printing PETG well is if it’s an old printer without a heated bed. Save for that (and potentially faulty hardware or miscalibrated settings), there’s not really anything that “can’t” print PETG.

I actually have some PLA+ rolls that print at higher speeds temps than my PETG rolls 🤷🏾‍♂️

Great job! These are very cool

I’d quit drinking, too, if it had me tasting hallways.