Not sure I’m taking about the same thing but what I’ve seen is people printing a couple of layers out of pla then switching to other material to avoid having to mess with glue or else. This is to avoid bounding with plate as it can happen with petg or other material. But in no case I’ve seen people printing entire build area, usually the same size as print + a bit of extra to pull off that pla layer

Pla and Petg are fine but as already talked, they are other things to take in consideration. Best thing you can do is to apply a coating of food safe epoxy.

You can use a slicer feature which will pause at some specific layer, if you have a dedicated app on your phone, it will notify you that printer has been paused.

It’s either over extruding or a bed level issue. First level bed again and if it still happening calibrate your extrusion flow. Since you had adhesion issue, probably just bed leveling will solve issue. If bed is well leveled and still have adhesion issue, clean your bed with basic soap and hot water (and avoid touching bed with your hand as much as possible)

Don’t know where you heard that but micro Swiss hotend has been really popular until dragon hotend came out. I’m not saying it is better than dragon but was known to work great. About prices, it might depend where you live as I just checked right now and dragon is more expensive than micro Swiss.

Oh, then I guess I didn’t understand OP correctly as I understood he has a Bowden setup with his orbiter. Thanks

Don’t know which printer you have but if your main interest is a direct drive setup over Bowden, chances are that you can setup your orbiter 1.5 as direct drive by printing some adapter.

What papalonian said is right, when this machine came out it was expensive but as today standard, this machine isn’t worth much so don’t spend a lot of money on it. Every plastic part that you see can be printed with your printer. Should be available in their GitHub page. Nonetheless, it’s a great printer to learn 3d printing

Haven’t read so can’t tell you but you will find info at https://leminal.space/post/11699480

Cura can ignore what’s below buildplate as long as part isn’t too big for X Y axes. For cutting this, I would use 3d builder. Very easy to use. Just open model, and go to modify to cut model

While turning down temperature might help as it will be less fluid, i tend to think that increasing retraction might give him other problems (unless is settings are really low). On pictures we only see stringing at the top where printing areas are very small which means much more retraction are needed. His issue could be related to maximum retraction count and/or minimum extrusion distance, when those numbers are reached, printer will not retract filament to protect grinding too much filament. Others parameters to look out are retraction speed and prime speed but since OP didn’t share settings, no way to tell what he could try.

To OP, please share your printing settings.

I have used darktable, but doesn’t seem to fill your need as it is more a lightroom replacement than Photoshop https://www.darktable.org/

Thanks mate, did make a mistake…

Might post later about my A1 as I have a question that will fit here.

Home assistant has a voice assistant but it isn’t a voice assistant. Also, you are correct it is made to control a smart home (at the moment) that also include music threw external provider (or local files) but you can’t search the internet threw it. You can either install it locally or pay for home assistant subscription which include voice assistant threw cloud.

I have nvme setup on my pi 4 (I know it’s overkill for that purpose but already had pi setup like this prior to klipper), that being said I will definitely look at getting one with communication control even if power never goes down for more than a couple of seconds

If you make a search “ender 3 5v pin”, you will find plenty of examples on Reddit, octoprint forum and others. Problem was (or is) that printer was still getting power when OFF, it could lead to plenty of issues with worst case scenario where the mainboard died.

You definitely needs to calibrate your estep and flow rate as others mentioned. If numbers were correct then you might have a partial clog. If so, clean it and check Luke’s hotend fix on thingiverse/printable (really worth it). https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw

Under extrusion aside, you can get better text details by using a smaller nozzle as one issue for the text clarity is line width, while it isn’t ideal you can also try to set 0.30/0.35 line width with 0.4 nozzle.

Also, if you do plug in usb from your computer to printer (to calibrate estep), make sure to cover the 5v pin on usb cable with electrical tape. Otherwise you might wreck your printer mainboard. https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574

Just adding to your comment that if OP goes that route, he will need to cover 5v pin with some electrical tape on usb otherwise he will wreck is printer board. (Unless recent ender 3 have this issue fixed but I doubt)

I will look for a fanless ups as I’m kinda sensitive to noise and everything is setup in my living room…, I will make sure I have the mute option available.

Shouldn’t be an issue, power outage here are mostly about one second (5 at max) and even if my printer is being halted, my glass bed stick so much that my print don’t pop off by themselves, I always use a scraper even when completely cool down.