Another crab’s treasure was fantastic, been loving Nine Sols as well and it might be my favourite game visually, lots of hand drawn stuff and it blends Cyberpunk with Eastern mythology (devs describe as “taopunk”)

I’ve got a 4070ti running most recent nvidia-open on arch and haven’t had that happen, but I don’t tend to run with vsync often.

What proton version are you running this on? Had some weird almost microstutters in cutscenes playing DA:Veilguard through moonlight on my steamdeck. Swapping to experimental resolved that, think it was one version of proton-ge that I had the issue with.

Do you have vrr enabled by any chance?

Are you running through gamescope? Have had grief with gamescope and nvidia, but that was mostly with hdr.

Ended up dropping for good toward the end of beyond light, my partner and I primarily pvped (just for fun, wasn’t super into ranked honestly) and was feeling really stale, was getting tired of only control (easily my least favourite gamemode) for 6s and only elim or showdown for 3s got dry, missed a variety of game modes (and personally liked 4s). It sucked because destiny had really fun PvP and amazing guns, hand cannons will be the iconic weapons to me, rolled with a chaperone/hc combo or hc/fusion rifle since house of wolves, they got bows right too, the lemonarque was fantastic.

Are you planning to regularly print large items? Around that price range could get you a formbot v0.2 kit with printed parts. It’s core xy and open source if that matters to you. Print size is 120x120x120 which is small for sure, but in my experience, most of the stuff I print falls in that range (I have a 350mm v2.4 and a mk3s I’ve rarely filled the build plate on either, I’d love a few small printers for quick test prints). It’s also enclosed, can put a Nevermore Micro in it for fumes, and it’s designed to be able to print abs. Supposed to be able to print all the parts for larger vorons on it too if you ever do wish to go larger.

My first printer was a MendelMax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately due to a move and not wanting to ship a glass bed cross country. I personally like a kit for a first build, while I get that people don’t vibe with tinkering or maintenance, you’ll learn a lot and you can tweak it to your liking.

You could source from a Canadian vendor (assuming you’re Canadian based on your instance), I’ve sourced a lot from Spool3D in Calgary but will cost you more than the formbot kit. Definitely recommend them for future needs. 3D labtech carries a lot of mods, had great experiences with both of them.

Years of holiday retail soured me to it honestly, brings out the best in people…

Prusa’s first layer calibration in the past would do a long line across the plate to give you time to adjust, I personally just use a piece of paper or feeler gauge (have a tap probe) to set my offset and then run with it. Auto levelling and meshing work extremely well in my experience, if you have something adjustable imo you’re best doing that offline anyhow, the nozzle to surface distance is what matters, you don’t need to push plastic to measure that, in fact I wouldn’t even attempt to do that until I was confident in my measured offsets, tool crashes suck and super close scraped on plastic sucks to remove from a surface.

Absolutely! Sorry my bad, first thing I did for my prusa enclosure was create recirc filter and did the same thing with my voron so my brain just assumed it was standard practice

Assuming heat creep. Pla’s transition temp is like, in the low 50s +/- a few deg c if I recall, it goes wet noodle and can easily cause jams, absolute pain in my ass doing a bunch of pla prints in the summer on my mk3s inside a prusa enclosure, ended up setting the plate to something like 30c, had issues even with the 140mm exhaust fan on to try dropping the chamber temp. I rarely print pla in my voron, it’s basically hot bed set very low and relying on my print surface to keep the print anchored when I do. Not had issues with petg in an enclosure, personally would recommend using an enclosure for all prints anyhow, even pla gives off some nasties as far as I recall.

I personally prefer abs to either petg or pla for general use, I keep all on hand as there’s not a filament best for all use cases.

Edit: Assuming you have an enclosure filter. I highly recommend something like the nevermore (use a stealthmax on my voron). I do also keep my printers outside of my home, which I know not everyone can do. If I had them inside, I’d set up something to vent the room outside as well as having enclosure filters, some filaments are worse than others, Nevermore includes citations to a bunch of relevant studies regarding air pollution while printing

My highschool blasted Christmas in Ignace - Arrogant Worms every single day during fundraising drives, they’d stop when they hit their goals. Was very effective.

Like the idea, be great if you had something like miniDSP ears to test with. Would denser infill help the sound? Pads are massive in terms of sound, I put the wrong pads on my dt880s in the past and they sounded like straight garbage, be worth trying to replicate the same sort of density/sealing of your existing pads.

I’ll throw my hat in for Harvey’s, easily one of the better veggie burgers and you get to choose toppings.

General recommendation for spool3d, they may be on otherside of the country but they have a solid selection, fast fulfillment, and some really nice house brand filament, more or less buy everything parts wise from them and 3D Lab tech.

Edit: Matter3D have some great black friday sales on right now too, filament manufacturer in BC, really like their filament, particularly their abs, free shipping >$80 CAD in Canada as well.

Might find this interesting, uses abs, there’s an example at the end of using one of the fdm printed lenses with lasers

I’ve tried with petg, was just for looks (transparent cases) rather than optical use, wasn’t super satisfied with it. Might try abs, it takes to acetone smoothing really nicely

Everything I’ve seen says do it in 30s bursts and stir, apparently does a good job of melting it with breaking

The collage with artist information was really cool with the Zune media player, I’m Canadian so we didn’t get the Zune pass for a while, that during the iPod era was ahead of its time as a streaming service.

The hard disk in my Zune died years ago and its totally been lost in moves unfortunately, would love to have flash modded it like people do with their old iPods, having a dedicated media device would be great. I’ve seen refurbed zune HDs on eBay, temptation is there, just need to find out if there’s any way to sync with the Zune media player, had a Foobar2k plugin years ago that did iPod syncing, something like that.

I legitimately miss my lumia 1020, I really liked the way that applications “flowed” as well, entire ui was really intuitive, maybe partly because I had a zune with the touch pad for years before getting a wp7, zune was another solid but memed on device.

I recall it being great for sponge toffee, also fantastic for melting things like chocolate or other (non-culinary) stuff.

Ion fury and Hedon are solid too, build engine and gzdoom respectively. Selaco though, sometimes it’s almost hard to believe it’s running on the doom engine.

I’m printing a bunch of these gameboy cartridge cases, replacing the batteries in all my partner’s old Pokémon games and then attempting to put a cover on them, no artist so relying on The cover project for those, meant for ds cases but it’s close enough.

And manuals (Thanks internet archive)

I did mine first as a test run, just need to do the rest.

I had an issue I caught early when I swapped my prusa from a Rambo to an skr mini, used the same power wires which didn’t have ferrules, I got “lucky” that the power supply shut itself down, one wire had worked itself a bit loose, enough to potentially arc.

I’ve replaced everything with new 14 awg wire with solid ferrules and I inspect semi regularly, I trust my crimps here but I don’t mess around with potential fire hazards. I think there’s a tendency to think, oh it’s low voltage, it’s fine, but there’s a lot of energy going through those wires, treat it with the same respect you would mains power. Take your time, double check everything, and invest in good crimping tools.