Well. I’m not sure I fully understand it. The way I calibrated e steps was to tell it to extrude 100mm of filament and then measures how much filament was pushed through the nozzle. This resulted in a value of about 680 steps/mm.
This always overextrudes and setting it down to 640 steps/mm made it much better.
Setting flow rate in the slicer does not seem to have the same effect.
Lowering e-steps gave the result I wanted but with a lower value than was calibrated for.
Sounds good. I’ll definitely give those a try to further calibrate it.
I have the issue that the nozzle hits infill during travel motions and it probably has to do with minor overextrusion.
Hmm. I bought it a few years ago when there weren’t many all metal hotends. It’s never caused any issues.
Back then it cost me about 80 euros which was a bit steep but acceptable.
Back then my reasoning was that I didn’t want any PTFE close to the hotend, fearing offgassing and limiting my options for filament types.
Detail. I’m looking to achieve tighter tolerances with 3D printing, going for dimensional accuracy.
Always has been.
A laser strong enough to shoot a mosquito down will also be strong enough to cause instant permanent blindness. Would you really want to be in the same room as that thing?
Query: Where is the target meatbag?
One can hope for a properly fleshed out disc 2.
There’s going to be a next Mass Effect game?
Oh so that’s where they went after Kratos released them.
Belgium is 50 years in the past. Won’t work that well.
Source: Dutchman.
Also, these days that is a compliment.
That’s fair I guess. But you can keep a backup of your GoG games in case the server goes down. With Steam that isn’t possible.
It’s something the Dunmer often say.
Not surprising but I’m glad a famous 3d printing youtuber points it out.
My printer is set in an Ender tent, it’s like a grow tent and it’s connected to the ventilation system in our apartment. Everything gets vented outside.
Also due to static electricity most particulates will stick to the air tubing. Which is good because it will agglomerate and is therefore easier to get rid of.
Microplastics and VOCs are bad mmkay. If you can smell it you’re doing it wrong.
Ackschually
PLA is not abrasive by itself but it’s additives might be. Titanium dioxide is a common colorant for example which might end up eroding your nozzle slowly.
So mid print, pause and resume just like with replacing a filament roll.
People ignore that.
What’s so funny about Biggus Dickus?
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If it’s PLA or PETG it’s probably still usable. PLA can get brittle if it’s wet though but drying should make it usable again.
I use a cheap food dehydrator to dry filament.