The right tool for the right job.

I agree that many small businesses jump to Kube too early. If your entire app is a monolith and maybe a few supplementary services, then Kube is massive overkill.

But many people also tend to overlook all of the other benefits that suddenly become very easy to add when you already have Kube, such as a common way to collect logs and metrics, injecting instrumentation, autoscaling, automated certificate handling, automated DNS management, encrypting internal network traffic, deployment tools that practically works out of the box, and of course immutable declarative deployments.

Of course you can build all of this yourself, when you need it, but once you have the foundation up and running, it becomes quite easy to just add a helm chart and suddenly have a new capability.

In my opinion, when the company it big enough to need a dedicated ops team, then it’s big enough to benefit from Kube.

On slow terminals k9s can be rather sluggish when scrolling through the lists

Yeah… 1212 hours in Factorio, and I only just started Space Age

It only shows if you have been using different types of devices. I have been exclusively on Linux the whole year, so mine doesn’t show either.

As a small follow up, new research seems to suggest that current EV batteries might last 40% longer than any predictions have expected, due to the real-world use of them causing very different wear on them than the heavy duty testing in labiratories:

https://lemm.ee/post/49902192

The DuckDuckGo search engine gets it’s results from the Bing search engine

Subnautica, if you want a map, you have to start triangulation and drawing

Encryption is really really hard, and avoiding some form of sidechannel attack is much much harder.

Sure key exchange also isn’t trivial, but I would say that key exchange is significantly easier. Care to elaborate?

RSA doesn’t scale, so if the message is large then RSA becomes unwieldy. So most encryption methods that make use of RSA actually encrypt the data with a symmetric algorithm, and then just encrypt the key for the symmetric data using the RSA key.

But there is still way way way too many ways to implement crypto wrong, which can completely compromise the security of it.

Battery degradation is certainly a very valid question to ask. This isn’t leasing or renting, I got a loan at the bank, and purchased the car. So yeah, battery degradation is an issue, however to me battery degradation basically means that I would just have to charge more often.

All current figures I can find mention degradation between 0.5% and 3% per year. Taking the worst case of 3% and compounding it over 10 years, means my 77,4 kWh battery turns into a 57 kWh battery, that is a total of 73% of the original capacity, at 20 years this reduces to 54% of original capacity. At present I only use around 20-40% of my battery on an average day, which would mean that I would still be able to fulfill my daily driving needs. In the best case of 0.5% degradation, the total capacity would only have decreased to 73,6 kWh, 95% of the original capacity, or 90% after 20 years. The warranty on the battery ensures that the battery can’t lose more than 30% of its original capacity in the first 10 years, so it seems reasonable to think that Hyundai isn’t expecting the degradation to exceed 3%, and they likely have built in a good bit of margin into that warranty, as they obviously don’t want you to replace your battery free of charge.

It’s very important to understand what causes most of the battery degradation, though.

The main killer of batteries is heat. If the thermals of your battery isn’t managed well by the car your battery will degrade much much faster. This is why laptops and cellphone batteries don’t last very long. Most modern EVs has liquid cooling loops that keep the battery at the correct temperatures, both when driving and when charging. Many of the early EVs didn’t have this, and suffered for it. So many of the statistics about battery degradation are from the earlier EVs which didn’t manage temperatures well.

Charging to 100% wears the battery much more than charging to 80%, which in turn also wears more than charging to 70%. Depleting the battery and then charging to 80% again and again wears your battery more than staying between 40%-70%. Even better if you can keep your battery at a lower state of charge constantly, but that obviously means you have less range at your disposal. Charging faster also causes more wear. So with the right behaviour you can reduce your battery wear quite significantly. I have set my car up to only charge to 70% for normal days, and only increase the limit when I know I’m going on a long trip. I also almost exclusively charge at home, which means a nice and slow charge rate during the night when the outdoor temperatures are low. I only use more than 40% of the capacity between charges on very rare occasions.

My Ford Fiesta was 8 years when I sold it, and at 10 years it’s timing belt should be changed. Something that would cost about 1/3 of the market value of the car… And if the belt decides to give up before then, then I would have been looking at rebuilding the whole engine, which could easily be as expensive as the whole market value of the car. Besides that, there’s all the other bits in a combustion vehicle that needs maintenance, such as spark plugs, oil changes, transmissions, clutches, cylinder head gaskets, exhausts wearing trough. Even brake pads last longer as most of the braking is done by regenerative braking. EVs does however need the battery coolant changed, and does wear the tires quicker.

In the end battery degradation is a gamble that I have chosen to take. I personally think the benefits outweigh the risks, and even at 54% capacity after 20 years, the car would still be useful to me. I do however understand that this doesn’t work for everyone, and many others won’t be willing to take the same risk.

I wasn’t aware that both the VW and Renault wasn’t available in the US… That sucks. But yeah, the MSRP for EVs are generally quite a bit higher, but that goes for pretty much every size of car, but that is only a tiny bit of the whole picture. I also didn’t know the price disparity was that big in the US for the Mazda and Volvo… But when you are looking at EVs you really need to look at the service and fuel/electricity costs too.

I live in Denmark, so obviously my experience will be very different. I recently switched from a Ford Fiesta 2016 (5-door hatchback, gasoline, medium-high trim) to a Hyundai Ioniq 5 (fully electric, crossover SUV, top trim), and I drive about 30,000 km per year (~ 18600 miles). And when you factor in the cost of the car loan, the service subscription, the insurance, and fuel costs, then the much larger, and much more luxurious Hyundai Ioniq 5 comes out to costing me about the same per month.

I did all the math before we bought the Ioniq 5, but unfortunately don’t have all the numbers handy anymore. But the main factors are the MSRP cost and the fuel costs

Ford Fiesta 1.0 100 hp Titanium Fun (2016):

• Price 160,000 DKK (~ $22,690), Loan came out to 1790 DKK per month (~ $254)
• Gas costs per month ~ 2,200 DKK (~ $312)
• Sum per month 3,990 DKK (~ $565)

Hyundai Ioniq 5 Long Range Ultimate (2023):

• Price 405,000 DKK (~ $57,434), Loan comes out to 3559 DKK per month (~ $505)
• Electricity costs per month ~ 400 DKK (~ $57)
• Sum per month 3,959 DKK (~ $562)

So even though the cost was 2.5 times higher, it was about the same to own and drive. I have no idea how that math works out with gas and electricity prices in the US.

Damn, I didn’t know that Renault wasn’t in the US market…

• Renault Megane E-tech Electric
• VW ID.3
• Volvo EX30

And there’s quite a lot more brands with EVs in that size bracket coming out in the near future

Mittens take away too much dexterity for many things. But a 3-finger glove is the perfect compromise: https://www.snowsportprofessionals.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/8272aca90cb09ec2c85ef324e10933f57f500daf.jpg

If you want to migrate to Linux, I would strongly suggest you set up a dual boot, and start playing with it to gain experience. Being able to switch back to something you know is a massive benefit when you are still learning.

While Linux has come a very long way, you are sure to experience some hitches along the way. If not because of Linux itself, then because you are not familiar with how to do “that one thing” on Linux.

Since all of these politicians are at the same time ensuring that they are above the law, I don’t think you can count on getting them arrested.

Jellyfin has supported Music and TV shows since the start

This is a useless comment… This issue has nothing to do with the brand of printer you bought, and everything to do with the settings of your printer and whether the filament is wet. A well tuned Ender will print better than a much more expensive badly configured printe with wet filament. Of course there are printers now that are much easier to get good results with, especially because they come with build in filament dryers, and automatic tuning.

Am Danish. This is fairly accurate, a solid 60% of Danish is just random guttural sounds. This documentary however misses that the remainder is 30% raw deadpan sarcasm, and 10% English words pronounced in an awful accent.

To contrast and compare, this is an average modern Swedish television quiz show: https://youtu.be/lzv6ljgwgzs

Dunning-Kruger is a hell of a drug…