No hardware required, also not some new technique suddenly discovered:
How to Bump Fire an AR-15/M4
AK47 bump fire

You can also use electrical tape to cover the 5V pin: https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574

Thanks for the summary image and link to a new channel to check out! I love that the video just immediately jumped into topic without any fluff or calls to action at all. Likely going to try my luck with a Granitestone griddle to replace an ancient one with some gouges around the edges that’s probably giving me hyper-cancer.

What kind of filament is that printed with and are you concerned about it failing over time? Especially if there’s spinning disks in there I’d be paranoid as hell about it falling.

Generally speaking, I don’t like an overly verbose acronym. It’s part of why I stop at LGBT or LGBTQ instead of going all the way to LGBTQ+, or as my government seems to want to say, LGBTQ2IA+. In my opinion, the effort to make the community more inclusive by adding more sub-communities to the acronym has the opposite effect.

The other question/issue I have with the long abbreviation is does the order of the letters matter? It’s currently settled on L->G->B […] but is that just by tradition or does it signify some other importance [order added? relative size of community? etc]. If you remembered all the characters but couldn’t remember the sequence is it disrespectful to list them alphabetically or try to use the typical order and possibly transpose a couple? I would assume there’s a process for deciding when to add a designation to the abbreviation, how do things get decided against and what does that mean if you feel there’s something that should be included but isn’t? You wouldn’t want to gatekeep someone’s genuinely held identity, but you can’t list everything, and if you add a “everything else” then what’s the point of a list in the first place other than increased prominence in relation to “everything else”?

It definitely feels like a more conversation-friendly catch-all (such as “queer”) is more tenable instead of constantly adding or changing designations to refer to a nebulous collective group. At its core, basically that group is anyone that considers themself not CISHET, and any extra specificity is certainly important for identity and community building but probably not needed in typical conversations/references.

Another thought just occurred to me, how does screen reading assistive tech. deal with seeing LGBTQ2IA+ – does it just read out every character or will it try to pronounce it like a word? Either would be varying levels of jarring to the user I’d think.

Sorry for dropping this kinda stream of consciousness rant on your comment, and I don’t consider myself part of the community so it’s really not for me to say anyway, but I was glad to see a similar sentiment against the abbreviation reflected throughout this post and particularly from your comment.

*moot

Awesome, glad to hear it!

When you’re ready to try printing again I agree with the suggestions to:

• lower the bed temp to ~60c
• avoid using glue sticks or similar since it shouldn’t be necessary with PLA, and will just add another variable
• keep working through first layer print tests

I’m surprised you’re having adhesion problems with a PEI build plate. When I swapped to PEI it was like magic; filament effortlessly sticks and finished prints pop off from a gentle flex. There isn’t like a plastic shipping cover on it or something is there?

Anyway, good luck with the rest of your troubleshooting – I’m sure you’ll eventually get it dialed in :)

VGTG VGH

I have no personal experience with a failed firmware update but a quick search returned https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/sv06-bad-flash-probably-needs-bootloader/1452 and “solved” = https://forum.sovol3d.com/t/sv06-mainboard-brick-after-updating-sovol-firmware/862/52

Seems like for some people it was ultimately the sd card being faulty that was causing the failure, especially if it was the sd card included with the printer.

Good luck!

To my eyes the inner rectangle portions look pretty good and uniform. If that’s a brim around the outer edge it’s definitely not doing its job.

Is the severe warping and sharp creases from you fighting to remove it from the plate or is this basically how it looked on the printer?

EDIT: If there’s any kind of draft near the printer maybe you could try using a cardboard box or something to build a makeshift enclosure.

Are you saying the surface in the picture is the one that touches the bed? If that’s the case it should be nearly perfectly flat and smooth(ish depending on bed texture). If that’s the orientation it prints in there’s still an issue of distance and possibly belt tension or something else because of those waves and deep grooves. There’s a bunch of different methods to level a bed but ultimately you want the nozzle to slightly squish the filament it is putting down, in the picture it looks like it might not be.

As for the bed being clean, if you haven’t yet I’d definitely spray some isopropyl alcohol and wipe it off, taking care not to touch the bed with your hands at all – oil from your skin will easily cause adhesion issues.

Larger prints in general, and especially if there’s temperature variance while printing (drafts), can start to pull off the bed as the material contracts. You may need to add a brim in your slicer to help keep it welded down. When it’s necessary to use one will be a learning experience as you get used to your particular printer and environment.

Toby Huss went on to do a lot of great and varied projects (I’m especially fond of Reno 911! and Halt and Catch Fire) but I wonder how often people mention his character, Artie, The Strongest Man in the World, when they meet him.

Pete & Pete definitely aged very well and the opening theme song [Piped mirror] still rocks too.

Seems like a huge waste of filament and print time. I use Rubbermaid TakeAlongs which are air-tight and transparent, negating the need to label what’s inside.

Mac Switch - Gaming [from YouTube]