Even 5 minutes seems short. You’re already dead, what’s the rush?

Doesn’t mbin federate with Mastodon? I’ve been thinking about moving to an mbin server for that reason…

There’s also jury nullification.

IMO there’s no “best” material, they all have advantages and disadvantages. PLA is very rigid, PETG is UV and temperature resistant, ABS is temperature resistant and dissolves in acetone… ABS is tricky to print though, even with an enclosure. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you need the higher temperature resistance or like to tinker.

Only if it’s an uncommon name, otherwise you get a dozen linkedin profiles.

I haven’t tried, but it sounds like it’s hard to sell used printers. Maybe it’d be easier to sell the enclosure (less risk for the buyer) and buy the upgrade kit? Either way, it’s not like you wasted your money on the MK4S.

It’s not necessary in most cases, but it has advantages. Namely, it’s easier to work with and melts at lower temperatures (less risk of damaging components and burning yourself). Also, while lead has its risks, they’re easy enough to mitigate.

Lots of conjecture and misunderstanding in the other comments. Thanks for posting actual sources.

That’s what I do, never noticed the balls exploding. It takes about 20 minutes, but that’s the microwave’s time, not mine.

To be fair, “merging with” doesn’t specify which one will be managing the other. Unlike “merging into”…

I tried printing a disk with the bed at 70c and it looks better. Going to try with it even higher. This sheet has a +0.350 z offset compared to my normal PEI sheet, so that might contribute to low heat conduction.

It was out of mind until I got this new build plate with a fancy texture that I want to imprint on my prints.

This is PLA, I can’t get PETG to stick to the “PEO” bed plate.

Thanks, now I’m hungry

I tried adjusting the z offset to raise the nozzle, but it didn’t help.

My bl-touch mount broke so I’ve been doing manual bed leveling for a while. I just finished printing a 185x185mm part (half of a dactyl keyboard) and the first layer looked great from the top.

Edit: I also deleted the old bed mesh from my klipper config when the bl-touch broke

40/200 looks the same as 60/220. I can try 60/210 but I don’t think it will be any different.

It’s hot - 60 bed, 220 nozzle. I’ll try 40/200

Layer adhesion is great.

No, this pattern isn’t coming from the bed. The bed actually has a polygon pattern that I’m trying to get the plastic to pick up. Sellers on Amazon/ebay/Ali are calling it PEO, but it’s really just PEI with a fine texture that diffracts light. The pattern from the bed comes through really well on the perimeter of anything I print, but not the center.

I forgot to mention, but I also played with the extrusion multiplier (both directions) and it didn’t make a difference. I’ve also gone through the klipper docs and TeachingTech’s calibration guide, the printer is fairly well calibrated at this point.

If you need to replace a cheap nozzle after each medium-sized print with abrasive filament, then I’m thinking print quality will suffer towards the end of a larger print (like >250g, but definitely >1kg). Not having to replace nozzles mid-print makes the $70 nozzle seem like a better deal. Depending on what you print and how much you print, of course.